Soft Minimalism and Punk-Rock Beauty Dominated The Fall/Winter 2020 Runway

If the Fall/Winter 2020 runway is any indication, makeup may be making a comeback. Despite the current state of uncertainty, makeup, hair, and nail artists looked to provide escapism through high-impact colors, sparkle, and shine.

In New York, Christian Siriano, Rodarte, and Anna Sui introduced a fresh take on punk-rock beauty — Dark hues and haphazard application — also echoed on the Gucci runway via streaks of mascara tears. Hair became a central spot for creativity this season, as hair artists played around with stenciled designs and neon roots. At Emilio Pucci, hairstylist Jawara riffed on the makeup-for-hair technique worn by Lil Kim in the ’90s, spray-painting hair with leaf and block print designs that coordinated with the collection.

To match the minimalist fashion spotted all over the runway, designers opted for low-key, knotted chignons. At Michael Kors, models were spotted wearing a slick-backed, twisted chignon with a middle part, while Giambattista Valli accessorized the undone chignon with headbands and veils.

Keep reading for a closer look at the hair, makeup, and nail trends coming from the Fall/Winter 2020 runway.

Design Aesthetics

Underground Punk

Gucci | Khaite | Louis Vuitton | Christian Siriano | Monse

Following last season’s Euphoria makeup moment, designers continued to incorporate rhinestones and sparkles into beauty looks, with a hard nod to punk-rock. At Christian Siriano, heart-stamped face paint paid tribute to Harley Quinn, while Gucci’s distressed eyeliner emerged as the new smokey eye. To match the edgy punk vibe of the clothes, lead nail artists at Monse and Khaite got creative with chipped polish and safety pin nail piercings.

Soft Minimalism

Proenza Schouler | Hermes | Salvatore Ferragamo

This season, designers continued to pay extra attention to models’ complexions to achieve a lit-from-within look. Natural skin and minimal mascara provided a stark backdrop to an array of lip colors at Jil Sander, Hermes, and Proenza Schouler, while statement-making hair often veered sleek and androgynous, as illustrated by the slicked-back styles at Emilia Wickstead and Saint Laurent.



Adeam | Prabal Gurung | Giambattista Valli

Across the pond in London, we saw the jewelry-as-makeup conversation come alive. At Halpern, makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench put a contemporary twist on an emerald-encrusted beauty look, originally designed by artist Giorgio di Sant’Angelo and photographed in 1968 by Gianni Penati for Vogue. In Paris, embellished eyes made a return with Ffrench once again taking eye adornment to new heights at Giambattista Valli.


Marc Jacobs | Rodarte | Chanel

The red lip continued to make a strong impact on the runway, even though Google searches for red lipstick are -13% to LY. Heavy-hitters like Proenza Schouler and Marc Jacobs displayed velvety, classic-red lips, while Chanel and Off-White switched things up with a sheer lip gloss number.


16Arlington | Olivia Rubin | Rodarte

Sparkles were a theme, just as popular on nails as they were on eyes this season. Alice + Olivia turned out a full-on crystal look using 3D accents, while Lela Rose and Giambattista Valli worked the trend in a more subtle, understated way. At Alice + Olivia, Gina Edwards, lead manicurist for Kiss, handcrafted nail looks inspired by the 1970s rock glam era.

For the full report or to learn more about trends that are growing — and dying, please contact

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